GmbH designers Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby design intimate, personal clothing that looks slick on the street and slicker inside a club, where the two first met. Their latest collection was designed in a locked-down world, where large gatherings are discouraged and parties are a misty memory, but Fall/Winter 2021 — dubbed “Welt am Draht” (German for “World on a Wire”) — doesn’t stray from the flashy cues that the oft-genderless brand is known for.
Classic elements return, including GmbH’s signature body-hugging knitwear, distorted tailoring and trim zippered trousers, often interrupted by a series of X-shaped wraps realized in suiting wool and textural faux fur. This latter fabric is served in a host of different makeups but no more impressively than a low-cut coat that demonstrates GmbH’s aim to undercut staid masculine norms.
Elsewhere, draping shirts and leather blazers are warped by the aforementioned wrapped shapes, a futuristic look that complemented the ankle-length trench coats and shapely trousers. In place of the German label’s recent ASICS collaborations, GmbH has introduced its first in-house footwear range, comprising an assortment of neutral-toned (and fully vegan) boots.