Thom Browne‘s tailoring inclinations often take a turn for the fanciful in time for his seasonal presentations and though Spring/Summer 2021 is relatively restrained in terms of garment design, it’s theme is particularly playful. Created as uniforms for the debut “Lunar Games” — who needs the Olympics anyways? — Browne has filled a stadium with stylish athletes sporting a selection of gender-refuting garments — “menswear as women’s wear, women’s as men’s,” Browne explains in a press release.

Imagined in luxe wool, cashmere and cottons, Browne’s latest collection is rife with experiments in structure. Oversized sack suits and flowing skirts contrast with structured blazers and Browne’s signature cropped trousers. Hand-embroidered and intarsia imagery graces a variety of knitwear and jackets, with time-consuming construction informing the swimmer-stitched blazers and hand-stitched jackets laden with Browne’s personal sketches.

A vision in white, the clean palette lends extra emphasis to Browne’s recognizable red, white and blue grosgrain ribbons and the other quiet standout accents. These range from wool seersucker coats beaded, ruched and finished by hand to low profile suede sneakers, paired with chunky sportswear-inspired socks to reinforce the retro-futurist athletic aesthetic.

Expect Thom Browne’s SS21 items to hit stores like HBX early next year.

Other distinctly progressive moods fuel the Spring/Summer 2021 collections from the likes of AMBUSH and Givenchy.

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